Ok...
Bike riding season is over here in New England and the Road King is in storage. Back to modeling! This week I kicked off the "building season" doing a couple of Quick FG lighthouses. Now for a major project. I have had the L'Instant Durable Mont-St-Michel (LID MSM) sitting around for a couple of years and have decided to start it. I didn't think to document it until today at work. I'll take some images tonight and add them to my next post. I hope to add to Kevin's thread which has been a great help. But a few points that do not require images.
This is a BIG and complex kit! It is printed on larger paper (A4 I think). That was the first issue. Also since i was not going to mess with the beautiful original model step one was to scan the model. I usually do this with models I have so i can have as many "do overs" as I need. Once I have the JPEGs I set about reducing them to fit on US Letter sized paper. In this case I resizex to 80%. That seems to have worked. I next printed out the models on standard paper and put the sheets in a binder for reference. With LID models the instructions are a bit sparse (non existent?) so the pages let you study the pieces even after they have been cut out and some of the folding lines lost. It also helps to find the pieces. LID scatters the pieces all over the place so not all the parts that go together are on the same page or even any page close.
Having the files also allows me to print on different weight of paper. So far i have used 32# for the basic build but have use 110# for structural parts such as bases and the vertical "walls". For really detailed work I usually go to 24 or 28# for any architectural detail work.
I have taken the big assumption that the model should be built based on the part numbering order. A before B, 1 befor 2. One of the exceptions I have found (based on Kevin's suggestion) is to delay putting the roofs on as long as possible. There is a lot of building small square pars then having to attach them to a base. The fit is VeRY tight in some places and there is some need of small adjustments to the structure as it is attached to the base. Not having the roof on really helps with these small adjustments and being able to get some pressure on the glues.
You really need to do a lot of pre-fitting with LID models. There are a number of odd shaped parts whose exact folding and gluing are not obvious.
If I get a break from Turkey Day preps I will post some images tonight.
Bike riding season is over here in New England and the Road King is in storage. Back to modeling! This week I kicked off the "building season" doing a couple of Quick FG lighthouses. Now for a major project. I have had the L'Instant Durable Mont-St-Michel (LID MSM) sitting around for a couple of years and have decided to start it. I didn't think to document it until today at work. I'll take some images tonight and add them to my next post. I hope to add to Kevin's thread which has been a great help. But a few points that do not require images.
This is a BIG and complex kit! It is printed on larger paper (A4 I think). That was the first issue. Also since i was not going to mess with the beautiful original model step one was to scan the model. I usually do this with models I have so i can have as many "do overs" as I need. Once I have the JPEGs I set about reducing them to fit on US Letter sized paper. In this case I resizex to 80%. That seems to have worked. I next printed out the models on standard paper and put the sheets in a binder for reference. With LID models the instructions are a bit sparse (non existent?) so the pages let you study the pieces even after they have been cut out and some of the folding lines lost. It also helps to find the pieces. LID scatters the pieces all over the place so not all the parts that go together are on the same page or even any page close.
Having the files also allows me to print on different weight of paper. So far i have used 32# for the basic build but have use 110# for structural parts such as bases and the vertical "walls". For really detailed work I usually go to 24 or 28# for any architectural detail work.
I have taken the big assumption that the model should be built based on the part numbering order. A before B, 1 befor 2. One of the exceptions I have found (based on Kevin's suggestion) is to delay putting the roofs on as long as possible. There is a lot of building small square pars then having to attach them to a base. The fit is VeRY tight in some places and there is some need of small adjustments to the structure as it is attached to the base. Not having the roof on really helps with these small adjustments and being able to get some pressure on the glues.
You really need to do a lot of pre-fitting with LID models. There are a number of odd shaped parts whose exact folding and gluing are not obvious.
If I get a break from Turkey Day preps I will post some images tonight.
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