I've built quite a few 1/50 scale tank models, and have always thought that the tracks on 1/50 and smaller tanks are a weak point. There are two main problems: 1. stiffness. 2. No track guides.
I've successfully addressed problem #1, and have a plan to resolve problem #2 with my next tank build.
On most parts pages of this scale, the upper and lower track strips are a unified piece which is simply scored down the middle, and folded over to form a long track of double thickness paper. Some modelers (including me) score and bend each link to add a bit more realism. Others just wrap the strip around the suspension parts and glue in place. Either way, the effect is just not convincing.
This time, I glued the unified upper/lower track strip to a scrap piece of card stock, and then cut the strip in half at the usual score line. I colored the long edges of the strips, and then cut the strips into individual links, and colored the exposed edges. I separated the links into two piles (uppers/lowers, inners/outers, bottoms/tops), whatever you want to call them.
Then I made a simple jig from a piece of clear pine, and glued a wooden paint stirring stick along one side as a guide. The second guide is a piece of mat board push pinned into place with a gap the width of the track. I carefully laid down the bottom links one by one, and then overlaid 2 taut lines of black thread, held tight with push pins at either end. Then, one by one, I glued the top links in place, trapping the thread in between, creating a long track of 4 paper thicknesses.
I freed the track, and "cracked" each link to break up any that might have been tacked together slightly during the gluing process. The resulting track was wonderfully flexible and snaky. Simply from it's own weight, it created realistic sags between the upper rollers. I couldn't be happier. It was well worth the extra time and effort. The jig is easily adjustable to accommodate any width track.
I've successfully addressed problem #1, and have a plan to resolve problem #2 with my next tank build.
On most parts pages of this scale, the upper and lower track strips are a unified piece which is simply scored down the middle, and folded over to form a long track of double thickness paper. Some modelers (including me) score and bend each link to add a bit more realism. Others just wrap the strip around the suspension parts and glue in place. Either way, the effect is just not convincing.
This time, I glued the unified upper/lower track strip to a scrap piece of card stock, and then cut the strip in half at the usual score line. I colored the long edges of the strips, and then cut the strips into individual links, and colored the exposed edges. I separated the links into two piles (uppers/lowers, inners/outers, bottoms/tops), whatever you want to call them.
Then I made a simple jig from a piece of clear pine, and glued a wooden paint stirring stick along one side as a guide. The second guide is a piece of mat board push pinned into place with a gap the width of the track. I carefully laid down the bottom links one by one, and then overlaid 2 taut lines of black thread, held tight with push pins at either end. Then, one by one, I glued the top links in place, trapping the thread in between, creating a long track of 4 paper thicknesses.
I freed the track, and "cracked" each link to break up any that might have been tacked together slightly during the gluing process. The resulting track was wonderfully flexible and snaky. Simply from it's own weight, it created realistic sags between the upper rollers. I couldn't be happier. It was well worth the extra time and effort. The jig is easily adjustable to accommodate any width track.
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